OSDev.org

Paging can be quite tricky, especially when you are trying to get to grips with the concept. I think you'll find gdb a great help here; put in a few judicious halt instructions (an endless loop will do the job) and you can then inspect the page tables in memory. Also, have a look at the qemu documentation on its built-in monitor, which also has a number of useful commands. (For example, "info mem" will show you the memory regions that are mapped.)